Wats and wats of wats

The temples, or wats as they are called are 6.5 km north of Siem Reap which to get to you either need to higher a tuk tuk or a bicycle.  I did both.  The first day of temples I rented a bike for one dollar and set off for the many temples to the north, Angkor Wat being the most famous but not necessarily  the most awe inspiring .
I rode to four of the different temples first Angkor Wat which I walked around in for a bit after I got some delicious street food.  It is old, large and beautiful and covered in tourists....Next temple please!  After I left for the famous faces of the Bayon temple in Angkor Thom.  Here there were fewer tourists and I was able to peacefully walk around through the many pillars of giant smiling faces.  This temple was steep and interesting.  I hung around a bit then moved on to one more temple then finally Ta Prohm or more well known as the location for Tomb Raider with Angelina Jolie.

Ta Prohm is by far the most interesting temple to me because it has been over grown with the trees planting their roots all around the hidden temple and jungle.  Although it has been pruned back it still feels slightly more forbidden or lost.  It has a slight air of mystique and with fewer tourists would have been an ideal place to explore. The temples were fun to see but after a day of riding my bike and walking through them all day I felt a bit templed out.

At the temples there is a problem and frustration which aided my temple exhaustion.  Every temple you  go to you become accosted by the children of Cambodia trying to sell you cheap bracelets, post cards, books and drinks.  They come in swarms all shouting "you buy my...." No matter the number of times you decline or walk away they always continue.  When they finally realize they can't change your mind and you don't want to buy they walk away mumbling or sometimes just blatantly say a good old F&*^% you!  So sweet.

I was about to give up a second day of templing but was invited by my fellow hotel guests to go with them on a rock and roll tuk tuk the next day.  That's right, ROCK and ROLL baby.  I of course could not resist.  The second day our amazing tuk tuk driver showed up in style with dvd players, speakers, ipod hook ups, music and a cooler.  What more could you ask for?  With my companions, a Brit boy, and 2 Aussie boys we set off on our adventure, headed for the smaller temples away from the north and to the east. 

These temples were less impressive but the day was made by our amazing tuk tuk driver who would pull into the temples doing donuts and yelling rock and roll.  He was an ex monk that stopped being a monk to support his family.  A month ago he got the idea to convert his tuk tuk into an unusual and unique tuk tuk which rocked!  As we pulled into the third temple we started the donuts with our music blasting.  The children from the empty restaurants came running over trying to get us to eat at their restaurant.  Normally this would have been annoying but instead it was a pleasure as our driver decided to have them all rock, paper, scissors for our patronage. 

The kids not only were laughing but they were amused by our famous driver and were able to just be kids.  We finally sat down to a nice meal.  After we finished our food we joined the kids in games and they all were begging for their photos to be taken.  I took tons of photos and continued to show the results to the very excited children.  We got to talk with the kids without them selling anything and enjoy their company.  This was by far the most enriching experience in Cambodia thus far. 

After, as we headed for Angkor Wat for the sunset we made a quick pit stop at the orphanage.  Again we were greeted by smiling children who offered us water and chairs and a concert.  "In da joongle da mahty joongle" was lovely but took me a minute to realize they were singing in the jungle the mighty jungle.  They also attempted head and shoulders knees and toes and the ABC's among others.  They were very cute but often never on the same word or with the right beat and never pronounced correctly.  It was very cool to watch and we also got to observe their English class before we left.  The orphans here seemed well cared for as best they can and have not needed to beg which was refreshing.

The second day of temple seeing was more of a cultural day and I very much enjoyed it.  I think it had much to do with my fellow travelers who were laid back and wanting to play with the children and also to our tuk tuk driver who new just how to make everyone smile.

Temple pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/linseypaddock/TheWats?authkey=Gv1sRgCJOMwe784cfdfQ&feat=directlink

Cambodia, the Final Frontier: Siem Reap

Border crossing hell= mini van to the boarder where a "guide" met us.  Well our guide was young, arrogant and had a bit of an attitude.  I found him untrustworthy and felt like he was always trying to take advantage of the situation and get as much money out of us as possible.  After leaving the boarder with a bitter taste in my mouth I finally found myself on my way to Siem Reap in a taxi with two travelers from the Republic of Georgia.

Transporting pigs, they are alive!

On first arrival I noticed that everything was very dusty and everybody seems to get around on motorbikes or bicycles and sometimes loaded on the back of trucks. All along the road to Siem Reap were motorcycles with pigs tied on their backs, two to a motorcycle, or 3 dozen birds tied by one leg or sometimes even an ox or horse with legs tied together on some sort of cart on  the back of a bike.  On first look they seemed dead until I saw a couple kicking and moving.  Welcome back to the third world I thought...and loved it.

First impressions of Siem Reap and Cambodia, I was surprised by how developed the infrastructure was, like the main roads, not to say they are anything comparable to the western world.  Geographically Cambodia is very flat, except for the southwest region, which surprised me so the roads are paved, straight and easy to negotiate, just don't hit, bikes, kids, animals, motorcycles or any other road block. 

I found Cambodia like Thailand has a very developed tourism economy in comparison to other places.  They have many easy to use tour agency's (though you need to watch out they can rip you off but that's the way the game goes) that only focus or mostly cater to travelers.  This seems to isolate the travelers from the locals at times, more so than in South America.  People seem to show less interest in the backpackers and it is more difficult to interact and feel excepted.

The people of Cambodia seem to be wonderfully friendly and smiley and a pleasure to talk to much of the time but they can also become short, arrogant and hostile at other times.  If money for tourist services is involved they often try to take advantage and can use sarcastic and rude comments.  If you say you don't need or want their service on multiple occasions I was told "fine then do it yourself," which I was trying to do anyways.  Also, on a daily bases in Siem Reap you are accosted by tuk tuk drivers asking if you need one.  If you politely say no they don't stop and then ask you about tomorrow, if you just say no they will respond with a sarcastic "no, thank you"and if you say nothing at all they get louder and more rude.  They do not understand how to back off.  They consistently hassle you no matter what whether it's for a tuk tuk, food, drink, post cards, books, etc.  If I want what you have I will find you!!!  It is possible to walk past a line of tuk tuk's tell the first no politely, the second no again and the third no and you will still be asked by the fourth and fifth in line. WTF?

The city of Siem Reap itself is nothing more than a small town with the center catered to the tourists.  The day market, the night market, the food stalls the bars and the restaurants are all battling for your patronage like the tuk tuks.  It becomes overwhelming and annoying most of the time.  Mostly Siem Reap is the city that is the jumping off point for the amazing temples including the famous Angkar Wat.

Additionally it is at night that the children come out to beg and try and sell you bootlegged books.  Both the children and the women with babies and empty bottles are trying to make money off of you.  One woman asked for money for formula and a guy bought her a 10 dollar bottle of formula and when he gave it to her she ran and we were told by the shop keeper she returns it at another shop.  If you buy anything you need to open it so they can't return it.

The children additionally try to sell you stuff and won't leave you alone or they try and touch you, (watch your wallet) and look really sad and helpless so you give them money for food.  I tried offering food to one but he didn't want food.  It's hard to not trust children but many are brought up to scam travelers.  They are not begging for themselves or selling books for themselves but for someone else around the corner.  Seeing these sights makes you feel bad but I know that supporting this behavior only hurts it in the long run.  You are better off giving your money to an organization that can help. 

My first full day in Siem Reap I spent  wandering the town to the market buying silver bracelets, my weakness, and stumbling on the Angkor Artisans which is a fair trade school where they teach locals to make traditional stone carvings and wood carvings as well as silk paintings and silk weaving.  You can tour the workshop and watch them create intricate details.  At the end there is a shop where you can buy the products.  It was all very impressive and beautiful, but a bit pricey, but that is fair trade.

Artisan carving a statue

In the shop I noticed a free shuttle to their silk farm/factory as well so I visited and watched how they make silk and how they weave amazing time consuming patterns on intricate looms.  All of the workers were extremely friendly and nice and it allowed me to notice the difference in attitude between those being taught and learning a skill that allows them to make a fair wage and income to those who feel abandoned and like they deserve more.  

Overall I am liking the more third world aspect of Cambodia but am having mixed feelings about the people and how they deal with tourism and the begging.  I feel I am constantly being overcharged and they are always trying to get money and rip you off.  When they look at you they see dollar signs, not people.

Siem Reap Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/linseypaddock/SiemReap?authkey=Gv1sRgCMDrorXh3OSA6wE&feat=directlink